Shaping point maximum
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Much of the discussion on the Forum concerns the variation of the screen navigation route from the original route as planned. One solution to this (which I have encountered myself) is just to add more shaping points.
An earlier post from an experienced MRA member suggested placing a shaping point every 3km or so (~2 miles for me in the UK ).
I know there are good reasons not to place multiple via points but as the shaping points work in the background and do not clutter the nav screen, what is to stop you doubling the number of shaping points?
My daily ride on a trip would typically be 200 miles and I would generally put in 50 shaping points to catch each turn.
There is a handy function with MRA Gold to expand the shaping point number. Would there be any disadvantage to placing say, 200 s/p's on my ride.
Indeed, is there any practical limit?@Jan-Smerke
200 is the maximum number of route points in any route but in my opinion it really isn’t necessary to overcrowd a route. Maybe a few extra if the route travels through a large town or city.Always willing to help if I can.
Triumph Tiger 1200 XRT called Tina.
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@Jan-Smerke
200 is the maximum number of route points in any route but in my opinion it really isn’t necessary to overcrowd a route. Maybe a few extra if the route travels through a large town or city.@Nick-Carthew Thank you Nick
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@Jan-Smerke
Placing every 3 km (or 2 miles) a waypoint/routepoint does not make really any sense. It also depents on the road you're driving (or want to). If you plot a route over a highway, then it has no use of placing waypoint/routepoints every 3 km/2 miles.On motorways (for example) I only place a waypoint where I enter the motorway and where I leave the motorway.
There's another big disadvantage of placing waypoints/route points too close to each other and that is if you have to make a detour. Too many wyapoints/routepoints too close to eachother copuld end up making you turn around guiding you back to the nearest/closest waypoint/routepoint and having difficulties in skipping them. It's easier to skip 3 or 4 rather than skipping 10 or 12 waypoints
Basically, if you plot a route, place waypoints/routepoints around every 10 km's instead. That should be enough for normal routes. Motorways/highway's just a where you enter the motorway/highway and where you leave the motorway/highway is enough.
I know it is a bad habit placing them at every turn and crossroad, i'm guilty about it as well. But it is also a matter of having trust in MRA and the way you plot a route.
| MRA Gold Member | Routelab + HERE kaart | Garmin Zumo XT | BMW K1200GT | Kawasaki Z650 |
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@Jan-Smerke
Placing every 3 km (or 2 miles) a waypoint/routepoint does not make really any sense. It also depents on the road you're driving (or want to). If you plot a route over a highway, then it has no use of placing waypoint/routepoints every 3 km/2 miles.On motorways (for example) I only place a waypoint where I enter the motorway and where I leave the motorway.
There's another big disadvantage of placing waypoints/route points too close to each other and that is if you have to make a detour. Too many wyapoints/routepoints too close to eachother copuld end up making you turn around guiding you back to the nearest/closest waypoint/routepoint and having difficulties in skipping them. It's easier to skip 3 or 4 rather than skipping 10 or 12 waypoints
Basically, if you plot a route, place waypoints/routepoints around every 10 km's instead. That should be enough for normal routes. Motorways/highway's just a where you enter the motorway/highway and where you leave the motorway/highway is enough.
I know it is a bad habit placing them at every turn and crossroad, i'm guilty about it as well. But it is also a matter of having trust in MRA and the way you plot a route.
@Nomko-Nomden the best advice would to the person making the route is use your brain. If it’s nessesary to put a shapingpoint, place it, if not don’t. All rules stating to put one every …..km/mls are just as good as knowing where you’re going. So Forget the rules and think yourself. Have fun
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Much of the discussion on the Forum concerns the variation of the screen navigation route from the original route as planned. One solution to this (which I have encountered myself) is just to add more shaping points.
An earlier post from an experienced MRA member suggested placing a shaping point every 3km or so (~2 miles for me in the UK ).
I know there are good reasons not to place multiple via points but as the shaping points work in the background and do not clutter the nav screen, what is to stop you doubling the number of shaping points?
My daily ride on a trip would typically be 200 miles and I would generally put in 50 shaping points to catch each turn.
There is a handy function with MRA Gold to expand the shaping point number. Would there be any disadvantage to placing say, 200 s/p's on my ride.
Indeed, is there any practical limit?@Jan-Smerke, What @Marinus-van-Deudekom says is pretty accurate. In the planning stage I often delete waypoints to see the impact of it on the route. If it changes, press the Oopsy button (CTLR-Z). If it doesn't the WP was unnecessary. Caution though when sharing your route with people on other platforms. Use the compare tool (Gold) in that case.
I am just an enthusiastic MRA user, and hope you will be one too!
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle.
Streetpilot 2610/Zumo 660/Zumo 395/ CAT S52 + MRA app -
@Jan-Smerke, What @Marinus-van-Deudekom says is pretty accurate. In the planning stage I often delete waypoints to see the impact of it on the route. If it changes, press the Oopsy button (CTLR-Z). If it doesn't the WP was unnecessary. Caution though when sharing your route with people on other platforms. Use the compare tool (Gold) in that case.
@Con-Hennekens Thanks Con. That makes sense. I was curious as to the approach of the more experienced MRA route planners.
I did a tour a few weeks ago around Cumbria, Yorkshire, Northumberland and then south to Lincolnshire. They were fairly complicated routes over 4 days on back roads taking in scenic areas and a number of natural sites to see. Routes were sent to my Nav 5. Over about 1000 miles it worked out pretty good but I had one or two glitches due to the myriad of country lanes giving the Garmin the chance to go freestyle. That led me to think I should have put in a few more shaping points.
I now have the set up to mount my phone (in a case) on the bike. I think that will possibly be the way to go in the future.
As I am nosey it would be interesting (for me at least) to learn how people use their MRA ie via phone, Nav device (ie Garmin or TomTom) or linked to a screen (ie Chigee) via AA/ACP. -
@Con-Hennekens Thanks Con. That makes sense. I was curious as to the approach of the more experienced MRA route planners.
I did a tour a few weeks ago around Cumbria, Yorkshire, Northumberland and then south to Lincolnshire. They were fairly complicated routes over 4 days on back roads taking in scenic areas and a number of natural sites to see. Routes were sent to my Nav 5. Over about 1000 miles it worked out pretty good but I had one or two glitches due to the myriad of country lanes giving the Garmin the chance to go freestyle. That led me to think I should have put in a few more shaping points.
I now have the set up to mount my phone (in a case) on the bike. I think that will possibly be the way to go in the future.
As I am nosey it would be interesting (for me at least) to learn how people use their MRA ie via phone, Nav device (ie Garmin or TomTom) or linked to a screen (ie Chigee) via AA/ACP.@Jan-Smerke I use an Samsung S20 on a Quadlock mount with vibration dampner and wired wireless charger. The phone can handle rain and the new screen lock option helps preventing rain from making the phone do funny things. I would not use AA or CP. I don't think they solve anything and there are far too many problems being reported.
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@Con-Hennekens Thanks Con. That makes sense. I was curious as to the approach of the more experienced MRA route planners.
I did a tour a few weeks ago around Cumbria, Yorkshire, Northumberland and then south to Lincolnshire. They were fairly complicated routes over 4 days on back roads taking in scenic areas and a number of natural sites to see. Routes were sent to my Nav 5. Over about 1000 miles it worked out pretty good but I had one or two glitches due to the myriad of country lanes giving the Garmin the chance to go freestyle. That led me to think I should have put in a few more shaping points.
I now have the set up to mount my phone (in a case) on the bike. I think that will possibly be the way to go in the future.
As I am nosey it would be interesting (for me at least) to learn how people use their MRA ie via phone, Nav device (ie Garmin or TomTom) or linked to a screen (ie Chigee) via AA/ACP.@Jan-Smerke, I agree with @RetiredWingMan on this. I call it "an extra layer of complexity" and I find it too restrictive. For not much more € you can get a Rugged Android phone and dedicate that for navigation.
I am just an enthusiastic MRA user, and hope you will be one too!
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle.
Streetpilot 2610/Zumo 660/Zumo 395/ CAT S52 + MRA app -
@Jan-Smerke, I agree with @RetiredWingMan on this. I call it "an extra layer of complexity" and I find it too restrictive. For not much more € you can get a Rugged Android phone and dedicate that for navigation.
@Con-Hennekens said in Shaping point maximum:
I call it "an extra layer of complexity"
I agree with you, but those Chigee devices are becoming more and more attractive! There's already one for my K1600, and it will probably fit seamlessly onto the connection for my BMW Navigator V (Garmin), which is already there and can be operated via the wonder wheel. That would make me really happy!
BMW K1600GT-P (2013) with BMW Navigator V | Nolan N100-5 with Sena 30K
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@Con-Hennekens said in Shaping point maximum:
I call it "an extra layer of complexity"
I agree with you, but those Chigee devices are becoming more and more attractive! There's already one for my K1600, and it will probably fit seamlessly onto the connection for my BMW Navigator V (Garmin), which is already there and can be operated via the wonder wheel. That would make me really happy!
@Rob-Verhoeff I have already bought said Chigee device - to go with all my other nav options!
TBH, I am not sure I did the right thing. I have been a bit naïve. I thought the Chigee would simply replicate the phone screen. It does not. There is less functionality and control with MRA as it appears on the Chigee. Also, the connectivity between the 2 is not always there so sometimes I wait patiently for a reconnect and sometimes I reconnect manually. I have wondered if I am doing something wrong but I see quite a few others reporting the same.
Hence, I am now leaning to using MRA as it appears on my phone. Not sure my phone was necessarily intended for this sort of work so I rather agree that the best option may be to use a rugged phone as a dedicated sat nav device. -
@Con-Hennekens said in Shaping point maximum:
I call it "an extra layer of complexity"
I agree with you, but those Chigee devices are becoming more and more attractive! There's already one for my K1600, and it will probably fit seamlessly onto the connection for my BMW Navigator V (Garmin), which is already there and can be operated via the wonder wheel. That would make me really happy!
@Rob-Verhoeff, yes of course, I understand your wish to be able to use the BMW wonder wheel
I think that is a big selling point for those devices! -
@Con-Hennekens said in Shaping point maximum:
I call it "an extra layer of complexity"
I agree with you, but those Chigee devices are becoming more and more attractive! There's already one for my K1600, and it will probably fit seamlessly onto the connection for my BMW Navigator V (Garmin), which is already there and can be operated via the wonder wheel. That would make me really happy!
@Rob-Verhoeff Oh yes ... by the way Rob, I am using the dedicated Chigee AIO 5 Play mounted on my GS satnav cradle.
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@Rob-Verhoeff I have already bought said Chigee device - to go with all my other nav options!
TBH, I am not sure I did the right thing. I have been a bit naïve. I thought the Chigee would simply replicate the phone screen. It does not. There is less functionality and control with MRA as it appears on the Chigee. Also, the connectivity between the 2 is not always there so sometimes I wait patiently for a reconnect and sometimes I reconnect manually. I have wondered if I am doing something wrong but I see quite a few others reporting the same.
Hence, I am now leaning to using MRA as it appears on my phone. Not sure my phone was necessarily intended for this sort of work so I rather agree that the best option may be to use a rugged phone as a dedicated sat nav device.@Jan-Smerke said in Shaping point maximum:
There is less functionality and control with MRA as it appears on the Chigee.
That's correct! Google and Apple simply don't allow the phone screen to be mirrored exactly one-to-one. There are many functionalities that those giants don't permit you to use. MRA can't do anything about that; it's entirely due to the company policies of those two.
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I am experimenting with an Android Auto device. I appreciate the comments about it adding another layer of complexity. On the other hand, even on the device I have, a cheap (less than $150 US Weuaste that I got on Amazon), the screen is bright enough to use in daylight.
That has not been the case with the two ruggedized Android phones I have tried: a Kyocera and now a Doogee.
My experience is that I need a display of at least 1000 nits for the device to be useful in sunlight. My Pixel 6 pro (not ruggedized) has a display with 840 nits and it's just barely okay in the sun - but I have to take my sunglasses off to see it.
Many of the less expensive ruggedized phones I have found, including the Kyocera and the Doogee, have displays in the 500 nits range - okay for a cloudy day but not enough for sun. So I suggest looking for the screen brightness spec before buying, and if the spec is less than 1000 nits, don't buy.
Vinnie
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I am experimenting with an Android Auto device. I appreciate the comments about it adding another layer of complexity. On the other hand, even on the device I have, a cheap (less than $150 US Weuaste that I got on Amazon), the screen is bright enough to use in daylight.
That has not been the case with the two ruggedized Android phones I have tried: a Kyocera and now a Doogee.
My experience is that I need a display of at least 1000 nits for the device to be useful in sunlight. My Pixel 6 pro (not ruggedized) has a display with 840 nits and it's just barely okay in the sun - but I have to take my sunglasses off to see it.
Many of the less expensive ruggedized phones I have found, including the Kyocera and the Doogee, have displays in the 500 nits range - okay for a cloudy day but not enough for sun. So I suggest looking for the screen brightness spec before buying, and if the spec is less than 1000 nits, don't buy.
Vinnie
@Vincent-Curren, that is a very Valid remark indeed! I happen to own a CAT S52 that is said to have a max of 530 Nits. To avoid sun reflection I added a matte screen protector. That almost eliminates reflection, but lowers brightness too. Like you say it is barely enough. In certain conditions I need to move my head a bit to be able to see the course of the route. Also I 3D printed a visor, that helps a bit but still not ideal.
I am just an enthusiastic MRA user, and hope you will be one too!
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle.
Streetpilot 2610/Zumo 660/Zumo 395/ CAT S52 + MRA app -
@Vincent-Curren, that is a very Valid remark indeed! I happen to own a CAT S52 that is said to have a max of 530 Nits. To avoid sun reflection I added a matte screen protector. That almost eliminates reflection, but lowers brightness too. Like you say it is barely enough. In certain conditions I need to move my head a bit to be able to see the course of the route. Also I 3D printed a visor, that helps a bit but still not ideal.
I think OLED screen should be the good option, I use LG V40 ThinQ and it is very clear even in full sun. Unfortunately I had problems with the GPS service - it stopped working for all applications started on the phone and it needs to be restarted. I never had it before, it seems that some applications are blocking it by accessing it in parallel - I think.
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I think OLED screen should be the good option, I use LG V40 ThinQ and it is very clear even in full sun. Unfortunately I had problems with the GPS service - it stopped working for all applications started on the phone and it needs to be restarted. I never had it before, it seems that some applications are blocking it by accessing it in parallel - I think.
@Stanisław that lg phone is only 660 nits and that wouldn't be enough for a real clear screen
