A lot is dependent on which device you are using on your bike. But in general I would advise NOT to use any "twisty route" options or any other non-default calculation options. The problem with them is that they do not translate to your device automatically, so your device does not know with which settings your route has been planned. That's recipe for disaster...
Of course you can use the TomTom twist-route option to calculate a route, but I would always make it equal to the default-options of whatever map you are using. So the steps would be:
- Create a twisty route on the TomTom map
- Create a new default route on the map that you are actually using on your device (might be the same tomtom map).
- Overlay your twisty route on your new route
- Draw your new route to be equal to your twisty route, adding as many shapingpoints as needed.
This new route is the route you want to use on your device, with the factory default routing options. This procedure makes your route independent from any device-settings. Another option would be to recalculate your route on the basis of the track from the twisty route, but then you loose your waypoints.
Now if you start drawing your route at the point where the twisties begin, from within the city any device will take you to the startingpoint in the fastest way possible, also by highway if that's quicker.